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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.